I used to use them years ago for quick change of lures. I was later convinced to tie direct and have done that for years. Do you use snap swivels in front of your crankbaits or other lures?
I don't. I remove the split ring at the tie point, from cranks and jerkbaits. I prefer using Norman speed clips.
(http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/content/Pod/00/00/44/p000044ii01.jpg)
Changing lures is much quicker/easier than tying each lure on, and it does not affect the action of the lure what-so-ever. Less knots to tie means more casts made, and you take the time to tie one good knot on the speed clip and you're usually good for all day. I don't like snaps w/swivels on cranks as it's just too much hardware. The speed clips are smaller and virtually fail safe.
Quote from: Eli on March 23, 2008, 10:06:47 PM
I used to use them years ago for quick change of lures. I was later convinced to tie direct and have done that for years. Do you use snap swivels in front of your crankbaits or other lures?
I have used the Norman speed clips for years for my cranks and rattletraps, have won a few tournaments using them and have not had many problems at all.
I throw crankbaits about 50 % of my tournament days fishing the Upper bay tidal waters, usually Bandit 200/300 size...also works well on Minus 1's and rattle traps.
I have caught largemouth to 6.5 pounds and smallies to 5 pounds using them and they work very well.
If you like to change colors or sizes often the are a good tool.
One thing is make sure that they are completely closed when you put the crank on, if not then there is the possibility that it will come open and have the crank fly off. they are small, and it takes a few tries to get used to them, once you figure out where to grab them to squeeze them open it becomes second nature to use them.
Much easier tie on a clip then trying to tie on a crank with trebles hanging down.
I take the split rings off and attach the Norman speed clip directly to the crank...I experimented in a swimming pool with them before using. What I found from testing with and without the split rings is the action seemed to look more natural without the split ring, with the clip attached directly to the crank.
I used them all season last year, but became convinced the snaps (which has an angled tie on point) were affecting the action, especially with traps, so I bought a few new stlyes this year to try out.
I bought the Norman's Speed Clips which I am going to mate with a Ball Bearing Swivel at times to eliminate line twisting...
(http://image.basspro.com/images/images2/81000/81027.jpg)
And I also went for a new stlye of snap swivel this year: The Coast Lock, which has a symmetrical, round tie on point and a mostly guarded locking mechanism to reduce the grass that gets caught up in the snap itself.
(http://image.basspro.com/images/images2/81000/81028.jpg)
Bruce - why do you remove the split rings on cranks/traps? Doesn't this reduce some of the lure's wiggle? Does it add to twisting line issues?
The split ring is just extra hardware. Bait's action is affected by having both*, I don't quite know why - possibly the additonal weight, more likely with a double ring there is very little resistance at the tie point for the lure to work against. You may have the same problem should you add a swivel. The swivel should be not be needed to eliminate line twist, as the lure does not spin (at least cranks should not spin unless fouled) creating line twist. The loops in the speed clip allows the lure work in the same manner as a split ring tied directly to the line.
*See Basscat&'s last comment two posts previous. I've also actually observed this.
Dan
Try the Norman speed clips without a swivel or any added hardware and with the split ring removed from the crank/trap.
I think you will like the action it allows the bait ti have. If you look at the pic Booger posted you'll see the clip end mimics a split ring so no other is needed.
I've been using them for years and they work well, come thru the grass clean.
I tie directly to the split rings. There was a time when I would use the ball bearing snaps but I just had too many problems with muck sticking to the swivel and sometimes the lure would run crooked. The only time that I use a snap is when the lure comes with a snap such as the Storm Wiggle and Mag Warts.
Quote from: Basscat7 on March 24, 2008, 11:45:30 AM
Dan
Try the Norman speed clips without a swivel or any added hardware and with the split ring removed from the crank/trap.
I think you will like the action it allows the bait ti have. If you look at the pic Booger posted you'll see the clip end mimics a split ring so no other is needed.
I've been using them for years and they work well, come thru the grass clean.
I will definetly give it a shot. I just read an article in Bassmaster Mag about a guy who uses a small bearing swivel above senkos and other straight worms and tubes that twist the line alot. I may have to give that a test this year too...
The BB swivel upline from a Senko would work......I fish Senkos on a split shot rig the other 50 % when I am not crankbaiting LOL....the line twist is a pain...I end up uncoiling the line at least once during the day by letting it out to untwist behind the boat...I only spool up about 80 yards on the spinning reels so not too bad.
I don't like any more knots then needed so I put up with the line twist to an extent.
Dan, line twist with baitcasting shouldn't be a serious problem. Main cause with plastics is not rigging your bait straight, causing it to roll which you don't want anyway as it is an un-natural presentaion. Spinning gear is another story, but the main cause of line twist with spinning gear is closing the bail by cranking the reel after the cast. You can reduce or eliminate that problem by changing to closing the bail manually before turning the handle. About the only time I have a swivel attached on a baitcaster is for Carolina rigging. I may also attach one when using spinning gear to throw weightless finesse worms because they are so light and may twist a bit in current. Using a swivel in that application is kinda like a splitshot rig with the swivel replacing the splitshot weight for me.
I hear ya - i have had only a few problems with tubes and senkos causing line twist on spinning tackle. I use spinning tackle almost exclusively for weightless plactis for better accuracy and skipping...
Line twist is inherent to spinning reels, closing the bail by hand helps, but the design of laying the rotating line on a stationary spool will always cause line twist...especially if you fish plastics fast like I do on tidal water....10 seconds in the water and back out for another flip..do that for a few hours and the line ends up looking like a braid, especially with a real senko on the business end..they seem to part a bit more twist because of their unique falling motion.
I use 10 lb. P-Line CX premium co-poly and end up changing out line about every TX...why I only spool on 80 yards. LOL
Thanks for the info and thanks for Cabelas. Shipping only took 3 days and I have tied on Norman Speed Clips now. They will be much easier than tying direct to the split ring or even the other clips. Of course, now I have to remove split rings from the front of 100 cranks... Happy to have the split ring piers. :grin:
I have the speed clips. I also use regular cross lock snaps painted black for when I don't want the chrome. Both are great choices. I usually don't remove the split rings from the cranks though.