For those of you who have a pull in your steering which most boats have, there is a simple answer; a torque tab. Here is an excerpt from an on line article on increasing speed in boats. This article was mostly for boats over 80 MPH, but this part applies to even the slowest of boats.
QuoteThe Torque Tab
Another downside of raising the lower unit is when the prop is raised with respect to the water surface it tends to "paddlewheel." That is, along with pushing or pulling your boat forward, the prop wants to walk on the water like a paddlewheel. This generates a rightward motion to the transom, which causes the boat to turn left. To compensate the driver must turn the wheel right in order to maintain a straight path. Now we have the undesirable effect of "crabbing" the gearcase when the boat travels in a straight line. This creates drag, just the thing we are trying to avoid. At high speeds it also tends to form a bubble on the "shadow" or port side of the gearcase. As the speed increases this bubble trails back further and further until it reaches the propeller. This causes the propeller to blow out or ventilate. Now the prop suddenly stops generating thrust and lift and the bow drops and the boat slows. This is known as gearcase blowout and is usually very dangerous because if one side of the bow catches the water before the other side (or if the steering wheel is not straight) the hull will "hook" and change ends violently. So how does one avoid this "ugliness"? The simple answer is to apply a torque tab to the skeg. This wedge, applied to the right side of the skeg, tends to apply a leftward force to the gearcase which should compensate for the propeller forcing the gearcase right. Now the gearcase doesn't crab through the water, no bubble, no blowout, no hook and hopefully no accident. Remember when a hull flies the only thing other than the prop in the water is the skeg so it is the single thing left that gives the operator control of the boat. Like flying an airplane with only one small control surface, to say it is crucial is a vast understatement.
I have had a couple of conversations with Ron Rook on this subject. Ron used to set up boats for several dealers and has had great success with this item and highly recommends it. Even if you don't have a severe problem, using a torque tab properly will allow your boat to run in a straight line even with your hands off the steering. This is a great safety feature if you think about it.
There are several manufacturers. He did say that the one from Bass Pro isn't a very nice one, but it does seem to work ok. It is his least favorite. Welding is recommended, but pop riveting will work although the rivets can work loose after time.
The makers he mentioned you might be able to get one are:
- Bob's Machine in Florida (the original place he got one and he says these are great http://www.bobsmachine.com/ (http://www.bobsmachine.com/))
- Land & Sea http://www.land-and-sea.com/marine/torque-tab/torque-tab.htm (http://www.land-and-sea.com/marine/torque-tab/torque-tab.htm)
- TH Marine http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=40 (http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=40)
- Bass Pro Catalog
I have done some searches and it seems they are available widely these days.
Here is a link that has FAQs for boat setup and mentions torque tabs:
http://www.boatsetup.com/FAQ.html (http://www.boatsetup.com/FAQ.html)
You can accomplish, pretty much the same thing with the anode located above the prop. I'd rather do that than drill holes in my skeg. Mostly, the countering effect of the trim tab is most noticable on cable steering, not so much with hydraulic. Many hydraulic steering boats come through with a flat anode, but they are easily replaced to the tab style should your boat have a little torque effect in the steering. My old boat had dual cable w/trim tab and it helped but not so much that I would ever let go of the steering wheel. The current ride has hydraulic, with the tab, and I can let go of the wheel - as long as I'm not in the middle of a chinewalk episode. Still working on that.
i might have to try this. the little anode in my boat doesnt do much.
i guess ill tack this on to the list of stuff to do this winter. :rolleyes: